Vermont

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

In the morning Nancy Hodgkins returned our phone call. We were mistaken. She lives in Burlington, which we had left the day before. She was very gracious and said she did not mind driving to the capital Montpelier (38 miles one way) after work to meet us for dinner.

Our first goal for the day was the Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks. In a shed we saw a video about the sugaring process and then we walked the maple trail. They drill holes into the bark and tap the syrup into plastic tubes that drain into the collection barrel. Then they boil it until it gets thick. In the gift shop we could taste different types of syrup. And of course, we bought some.

After lunch in Montpelier and a walk around town, we drove along Hwy 12 south as we had been recommended by the man at the Visitor Center. We were supposed to see covered bridges and lots of fall colors. We were now official leaf peepers. There were no signs pointing out the bridges so we had to keep our eyes peeled and we did succeed a few times. But the fall colors were pretty weak at this time. So by Randolph, we returned to the freeway. Susu called there but we lost her due to poor connection.

We passed a few cemeteries with very old headstones and the road ran just next to it. Later we have seen many more. Have never seen so many. But Europeans have lived here some 200 years longer than on the West Coast.

Our next goal was Stowe in the heart of the Green Mountains. It is a cute, historic town and a ski resort. It was getting dark by the time we got there so we just walked around a little before returning to Montpelier to see Nancy. On the way we stopped at Ben and Jerry Ice cream and listened to a video on their history. They had a hard time to make money and had to sell out. Sad.

It was very nice to see Nancy again. She looked good and she sounded happy. She had her own psychology practice in Burlington and had bought her own condo. She had a dog which she brought a picture of. And she was in the process of adopting a girl from Armenia.

Return to the US via Vermont

Monday, October 19, 2009

In the breakfast room we met a couple from Switzerland who had brought their VW van from home and had traveled to the west coast, then up the coast to Vancouver where they took the ferry to Alaska. Now they had driven across the continent in Canada and were leaving tomorrow for Switzerland. They had planned to drive to Mexico also but something happened and now they were going home. Our trip seems minuscule compared to theirs but I am happy with ours.

The couple suggested that we see Mont Royale before leaving and we planned to but it was foggy so we changed our minds and continued south towards Vermont. Somehow, we ended up on a different road than we had planned to enter the US. There are so many roads between Quebec and the US with a little Customs symbol at each crossing that it looks like a long row of ants along the border! Jalil was talking about spending his last Canadian money in a tax-free store. I could not imagine that there was a tax-free store at each crossing.

In St.-Pierre-de-Verone-a-Pike River we stopped for coffee - that was more an excuse to go to the bathroom and I was not ready to leave this different culture. We had a piece of cake, too, at the counter (Jalil's preference). This was a little mom and pop operation. The owner spoke French to her customers and the soup waltzed out to them very quickly. I did not get what was said but the speed with which she served up the food, made me think that she already knew what they wanted. With us she spoke without any accent in English. Jalil gave her all the coins he had left and she was happy - said that she would put them in her grandchildren's piggy bank.

My goal had been to drive along the narrow islands in Lake Champlain in Vermont but we had made the wrong turn near Montreal. Now I thought that we could rectify this by turning west to Venice-en-Quebec and follow the Canadian west shore of Lake Champlain. Good idea but there were more roads than the map showed so we had some trouble knowing when to turn south towards the border. One road was a dead end in a resort. On a field there were numerous little structures close together supported by sled like things (don't know what word to use). I suspected that they were used on the ice to sit in to fish in a hole in the ice. Does anybody know if I am on the right track? There was not a soul to ask any questions.

Well, we kept making turns in the southern direction on these small country roads without any signs. Jalil wanted to go back to a bigger road. Just then there was a building on the left and a gate across the road. There was a real person there and we asked if this was the border. "Yes!" The gate opened and I pulled up the camera as I wanted to get the gate but I missed and Jalil stopped at the building on the other side, where a customs officer demanded that I immediately turn off my camera. He was very serious. He told us the crossing was called Clarenceville/Alburg and he told us how to get to the islands that I wanted. He said it was a beautiful road, if we were not in a hurry.

Well, we were not in a hurry so we followed these islands - North and South Hero Islands in Lake Champlain - a very long (120 miles) and narrow (1/4 mile to 12 miles) lake. The Champlain Canal connects the lake to Hudson River so that large vessels can navigate from New York to Montreal and the Great Lakes. The country was beautiful with fall colors and the Adirondack Mountains in the west and the Green Mountains in the east. There are summer resorts here and there and parks and farms. We stopped at a State Park. There was a woman there who told us that the park was closed for the season but we could have our picnic lunch there, if we did not leave any garbage. It was a sunny day and warm in the sun so we had our picnic before walking down to the lake.

We had planned to spend the night in Burlington by the lake. It is the largest city in Vermont - 38,000 pop. It was settled in 1775 but most of its inhabitants left with the start of the American Revolution. Maybe, they are the ones who settled in St. Catharines, Ontario. The University of Vermont was founded in 1791 and Champlain College in 1878 - an old town!

We wanted to see Battery Park by the lake where there was a battle between US land batteries and British vessels on the lake. Parking was a problem but we eventually found a spot. Then Jalil needed a bathroom and there was none so he became a little contrary and did not want to stay in Burlington! He is not always rational. So we headed east. Shortly, there was a rest stop/visitor center and we have found them quite useful. The information man was so helpful, giving us maps and marking where we should be able to see the famous fall colors, after consulting with the computer. He also told us where the famous covered bridges were. Then he wondered where we were planning to sleep. When he found out that we did not have any specific plan, he called a few places for us and gave us a coupon for a cheaper price! So we headed for Barre (pronounced berry!). You do not know how to pronounce anything here.

Once in our room, we called Nancy who lived with us for many months while finishing the last part of her PhD. We thought that she lived in Maine. No answer.

Montreal

Sunday, October 18, 2009 - sunny

From Laval, an island west of Montreal, we drove the freeway to the old town without much trouble. We thought we took the wrong turn off but somehow ended up where we wanted to be! The streets were narrow, one way, or had been torn up for repair but we found Rue Notre Dame and a parking space. From there we walked to the Basilica of Notre Dame. There were supposed to be tour guides there. We found a French speaking one but no English speaking guide. We entered the church. The organ music was beautiful and the choir started so sing. It was time for Sunday Mass. There was a man standing in each aisle to prevent people like us from taking pictures. I have found a low light mode on my camera so that you can take indoor pictures without a flash and not be conspicuous. I was planning to try it but as soon as somebody lifted their camera, the man was there shaking his hand. So I did not try. Jalil did not feel that we belonged in Mass, so we left. The Place d'Armes - a square in front of the church - was torn up. Outside the church, there were many horse carriages and the drivers tried to get us on board for $45. But we chose to do our own walking. The wind was very cold even though the sun was shining. We wandered around on narrow, cobblestone streets and found Montreal History Centre in an old fire house from the 19th century, which was very interesting. The Brittish gained control of New France under the 1763 Treaty of Paris.

Afterwards, we returned to a Charcuterie where you could hear French music.I had photographed it earlier. The restaurant was packed with people and we had to wait for a table - mostly French speaking people. Once at the little table, we had to figure out the menu. They used names for the dishes and we did not know what they meant. The waiter was very helpful and we ordered beef/pork in a pastry with a salad, and a ham & cheese crepe with the same salad followed by an apple waffle for dessert - all very tasty.

At the table next to us, which was very close, was a couple from Victoria, BC and we started talking to each other. Their daughter was studying dance in Toronto so they came east often. They were interested in our travels and Jalil offered them to read my blog!!! The man gave me his card to send the blog to him but now I cannot find it and that is not on purpose!

After lunch we strolled along Rue St. Paul and checked out a few art galleries. One statue on the street depicted three women talking intensely. Jalil suggested that was Pam, Clarise and me! I asked the clerk in the gallery what it was called and she said: "The Gossipers"! That is not us!

While we were checking out the rack of bicycles that you could rent in front of City Hall, a woman scolded me for taking pictures of those bicycles. She was an angry woman who did not feel that the city should spend money on such things, when there were so many people without work. She said that she could not get a job and that the Social Services only gave her some money but no job! Then she abruptly left and we stood there with out mouths open.

Sue Glass called while we were walking and it is so nice to hear from friends and family. She was doing OK. While talking, we reached the car and we found our way back to Laval.

To Kingston, Ontario and Montreal, Quebec

10 17 09 Sun 45F/8C

On the way to Montreal we looked for a farmer's market in Couburg by Lake Ontario but we did not find it so we stopped in a strip mall and had coffee/tea with a fruit cup - fresh fruit. Have not seen much of that on this trip - one reason we were looking for a farmer's market.

There were fall colors along the lake and we were enjoying the ride while listening to NPR - always interesting. There were no rest stops along the way. There was a sign on the freeway with a gas tank and we took off mostly to go to the bathroom. Then the gas station was 3 km away from the road! It was called gas bar and an attendant pumped the gas. Have not seen that in a long time! Later we saw a Service Center by the freeway - a gas station, KFC and other restaurants.

The next town we stopped in was Kingtson - founded in 1673 by Lake Ontario, St. Laurence and Cataraqui Rivers. The farmer's market was behind City Hall and I finally found my bell peppers, I was wishing for, to eat with our cheeses and tea in the evenings. We also found carrots, apples and nice pastries. The baker was so tired that he did not quite know which pastry was rasberry or cherry. He had been up all night baking.

Around the corner from the market was a restaurant called Aroma - Turkish owner. The waitress came from Victoria, Brittish Columbia, and she was very pleased that we had visited Niagara Falls on the Canadian side and that we had visited Victoria in the past. I had pumpkin soup with sage, salad with different greens, feta, olives, tomatoes, chicken, avocado and bacon and Jalil had Tandoori chicken with nan.

From Kingston we followed the St. Lawrence River to Quebec and Montreal. Life changed in Quebec because of the French. The signs and specially the electronic warning signs across the freeway were only in French. I had not thought about French since High School and Jalil had never studied it. It was amazing that there still was French in my brain, but I managed. As Luna did not operate in Canada, I was relying on my map and guided Jalil to Laval outside Montreal. We had made previous reservations at Econologe. Montreal on the weekend was busy and there were not many vacancies.

Niagara-on-the-Lake, St. Catharines, Whitby

Before leaving, we had to drive by the falls again for a last look. They were still beautiful. We followed the river towards Niagara-on-the-Lake to Lake Ontario. The river soon made a 90 degree turn which was called Whirlpool Rapids with a contraption you could ride out over the water. We did not do that - just looked over the edge.

We did stop at a Country Store where we bought grapes the man was growing nearby. They were small and not very tasty but Jalil ate all of them eventually. We also bought an almond cake full of almond paste which we enjoyed a few days later.

This is a grape growing area and they make ice wine. They wait for the frost before picking the grapes. I wanted to taste it but it did not happen. It comes in white and pink. There were many wineries.

Niagara-on-the-Lake was an old town made tourist friendly with many shops and restaurants. It was the first capital of Upper Canada 1791-96. We found a tea room in the back of a store full of Irish sweaters and had lunch - Carney (?) pie with layers of vegetables, beet salad and a broccoli salad with dried cranberries, sunflower seeds and a thin white dressing. And Irish tea (Perry's ?)!

There was an old fort at the end of the river built by the English, taken by the Americans in 1813 and then retaken by the British.They abandoned it in the 1820's.

Later we were driving along the lake and we were stopped by an open drawbridge. There was a huge ship crossing in the canal. We got out of the car and walked near the ship leaving the car in the street. What we did not realize was that this was the first of seven locks in the Welland Canal - the fourth one built to provide passage for cargo ships between lakes Erie and Ontario. We wiggled around town and eventually found Welland Canals Centre at Lock 3. We were informed that the next ship would arrive in one hour so there was time to visit the museum. I asked a man walking though how you pronounce Iroquois. He kindly told us and then continued to answer our questions with long interesting stories for 30 minutes. He told us that a lot of people came to this area from the 13 states, as they sided with the British during the American Revolution. He also talked about the Underground Railroad. St. Catharines was 25% African American. Many returned to the South after the Civil War (relatives, climate, etc.) hoping that things would get better there.

Suddenly, it we time for the ship to enter the lock and we rushed out and up an elevated platform so that you could see inside the lock. It was the same ship that we had seen when we entered the town! When the ship was inside the lock, the gates closed and it filled with water from a reservoir. The same interesting man was there, explaining the whole procedure. When the water was level with the canal, the front gate opened and the ship left. Such a simple idea! The ship was 5 feet narrower than the lock. Jalil was amazed how fast the lock filled. I asked the man if he had ever heard of the Swedish Gota Kanal which was dug in the 1800's for shipping from Goteborg to Stockholm. It never was a financial success due to the arrival of the railroad. No, he had not but the story was familiar at other places.


It takes a ship eight hours to pass through the canal. Some captains live in St. Catharines and get off during that time and spend time at home until it is time for his wife to drive him back to the ship. Pilots manage the ship during the passage through the canal except when a captain has the certificate to pilot his own ship.

We really never saw the museum as we took off eastward. It was getting late and we did not know where we were going to sleep. We drove through Toronto - in rush traffic! It was an enormous freeway. There was a sign saying Express over the the two left lanes and a sign saying Collectors/Collecteurs over the right lanes. As we had passed through toll roads before, we did not know if we needed to pay on the right side or go in the express lanes. So we stayed sort of in the middle. Eventually, we figured out that Express was to go straight ahead. When you wanted to exit or enter the Express lanes, you could only do this at certain points. A good idea, once you understand the system.

Well, we made it through Toronto eventually, consulted the AAA book and called Canadiana Inn for reservations.

Fort Erie

October 15, 2009

Our goal for the day was Fort Erie where Lake Erie pours into Niagara River which ends in Lake Ontario down a steep slope. I was thinking of the old fort and Jalil was thinking of the race track! Communication is a challenge sometimes! Well, the fort had closed for the season, so we went to the race track which did not have live racing! Jalil took a few pictures and then he was done. The weather was cold - into your bones! Jalil wanted to find the downtown and we drove around a bit. Saw the Peace Bridge between Buffalo,NY and Ft. Erie, Ontario, - built in 1927 after talking about it for 70 years.

We finally found a worn looking street that could be a downtown of sorts. We walked up and down it in the cold wind and came upon a coffee house which was full of people. They had nice pastries - one with spinach and feta that was delicious. We liked it so much that we bought two to have in our room with our evening tea in Jalil's teapot. While sitting there, I was listening to the conversation behind me. This man was telling his two friends a story about a man he knew who was in the hospital and there he had a cardiac arrest. He then watched how the MD and the RN gave him a few shocks and the MD decided to call the code off. The nurse, whose name was Sally, suggested that they try one more shock, so they did and it worked. The next day Sally came to the man's room and he thanked her for saving his life. She did not say much so the man said to her that he was grateful that she had insisted on one extra chock. "How do you know that?" "I was watching you the whole time!" His audience did not make any comments. I have had a few patients tell the same story! But I did not tell him so. He did not know that I was listening. Janet recommended that we observe and listen to people and that is very interesting.

I had been wanting a bowl that I can microwave food in our room that is not plastic. When we walked back to the car, I saw a St. Vincent de Paul store so I had to check it out to look for a bowl. And I did find one made of glass for $1! I was pleased.

We returned to Niagara Falls via the QEW (Queen Elisabeth Way). There we visited the Historical Museum. We learned about the 1812 battle right there at Lundy Lane. That war is mentioned a lot in this area. We also learned about the Underground Railroad which brought fugitive slaves to freedom in Canada across the river. That must have been a scary trip with a very scary ending - crossing the Niagara River!

At the hotel we warmed up in the jacuzzi before cooking pasta and canned tomatoes in our new bowl, which we ate with lots of parmesan. Tasty! We also shared a spinach and feta pastry.

Niagara Falls on the American Side

The next day we walked to the United States. That sounds funny but you just walk across the Rainbow Bridge. You show your passport and answer a few questions about what you are doing and keep walking. The weather was not as nice as yesterday - kind of gray and cold.

Settlement of the area began after the American Revolution but the falls were not a tourist attraction. In 1795 the Canadian government refused to spend $30 to clear a trail to the falls because "nobody wanted to see them but small boys".

Things slowed down due to the 1812 war, which pitted settler across the borders against each other. The bloodiest battle occurred at Lundy's Lane on the Canadian side in Niagara Falls. Shortly after the battle, the war ended in 1814 in a draw - reinstating the border, creating sister cities on each side of the river. A Canadian woman at the Tourist Center stated that Canada must have won or Canada would have become American.

The railroad brought the first influx of tourists around 1840 and Niagara Falls turned into a carnival. In 1885 the Ontario Legislature established a commission to preserve the integrity of the land on the Canadian side. It was responsible for the well-manicured park lands along the river which preserved the most beautiful views for the public.

There were lots of private businesses in this area. Mills and plants blocked public access. By 1860 most of the land around the falls were privately owned. The land was bought by the New York State and in 1885 the falls were preserved as the oldest state park in New York.

The Niagara Falls are divided into three "cataracts" separated by three islands. The Canadian Horseshoe fall is the widest, Bridalveil the middle and smallest between Goat and Luna islands, and the American is the highest between Luna and the mainland.

So Jalil and I walked in this nice state park and we crossed the bridge to the Goat Island. The wooded island was green and had nice paths to walk on. We quickly reached Luna island and were very close to the American Falls. The water is sooo powerful. And this is only 50% of the water, as the rest is diverted for the generation of electricity on both sides! At night, 75% is used for electricity.

Further on Goat Island, we were able to walk very close to the Horseshoe Fall. We then followed the island to the small Three Sisters Islands which were connected with bridges. The water was pretty shallow here and there were so many birds sitting on logs and branches in the water. In some areas the water was briskly flowing towards the falls and in others it was pretty calm. When done there, a Niagara Scenic Trolley arrived and we hopped on. For $2 you could ride this one all day and get off whenever you wanted. "The best $2 we spent!" per Jalil. We got off at the Niagara Gorge Discovery Center, which we both agreed was a waste of time. Next, Niagara Adventure Theater where we saw Niagara Legends of Adventure - a 45 minute movie on IMAX screen. Jalil had to buy a copy so you can watch it with us some day.

By now we were tired and walked back over the Rainbow Bridge, had dinner at a large restaurant where we were the only guests - it really is low season! - pork chops (tough) and chicken caesar salad - mediocre, and returned to our motel.

Niagara Falls on the Canadian side

10 13 09

Our first goal was the famous Maid of the Mist. These boats have taken tourists close to the American and the Canadian Horseshoe Falls since 1846. We were given a blue raincoat and got on the first boat. You could see that they were prepared for lots of people but this is the slow season and we never had to wait anywhere. Actually, they close around October 24 so we were really lucky. The trip lasted 30 minutes and was "fantastic" per Jalil. I took lots of pictures while worrying about getting the camera wet. I kept wiping it with a napkin and it survived. The boat first went near the American Falls and Bridalveil Falls - the small fall next to the huge one. Then to the Horseshoe Falls where the boat stood still for a while before it turned back. There were "millions" per Jalil of seagulls everywhere. It was a memorable experience.

The Canadian Falls are 177 ft (54 m) high and 2,215 ft (675 m) wide and the American is 184 ft high. AAA does not give me the rest.

Afterwards we walked along the river with Queen Victoria Park on the other side of the street. There were many flower displays along the way. At the Horseshoe Falls we entered Journey Behind The Falls at Table Rock Point. We now got dressed in yellow rain coats. Three tunnels lead from the elevator to behind the falls. We were not as impressed there. It was too close to see much but there was a lot of thundering from the falling water.