Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Black Hills, South Dakota

September 24, 2009

The next morning Jalil wanted to go to the 50 cent breakfast in one of the casinos that he had seen the night before. We walked from the motel and on the way he decided that he wanted to walk up another street. There we found a bistro where you could have a late breakfast after 10 AM ( We do not seem to be able to get going early.) I had the most delicious asparagus quiche and Jalil had yogurt and granola (which we had every morning) but he was very happy.

As we were concerned that it would be difficult to find lodging for the next few nights, we went to Central Reservations as the antique store couple suggested. Thousands of people were expected to come for the buffalo round up. They found us a cabin in a place called Crooked Creek Campground in Hill City. The price was $27/night for a wooden cabin with a queen bed, electric heating, electricity for Jalil's CPAP and WiFi. There was a special building for BR and shower and a different building for laundry. There was a picnic table outside where we cooked with our own stove. There was also a fire ring where you could barbecue. We used our sleeping bags and were very comfortable.

We stopped in Hill City and checked out the train that took passengers to Keystone - a town 1 hour away and return after 15 minutes. Why bother? We went to lunch at a nice German restaurant and had wienerschnitzler with German beer.


It is now definitely fall - warm sun (70's) in the day but cold nights with a little frost in the morning. Nice to have the cabin!

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Cody to Deadwood

Cody



Breakfast was included at this nice motel and we had waffles, which was a treat after having kefir and granola most mornings. The owner couple was very helpful in guiding us eastward. We drove through this flat, dry landscape with a small hill here and there with high mountains in the far distance covered in occasional snow. Jalil noticed the snow and I did not believe it until we got closer. The road was so straight. We crossed the Big Horn mountains after shopping for food in Worland. Here brick buildings are quite common.



The highway followed Ten Sleep Canyon. On the other side of the canyon we could see a narrow road which was was used by the original Pony Express. There were many pull outs with information re the canyon. At one I met some nice people from Sacramento. Jalil stayed in the car.



The town of Ten Sleep was called so as the Indians measured distance with how many nights it took to get there.



We were now starving and wanted to eat our grilled chicken breasts we had bought in Worland but we had to wait quite a while before we found a picnic place in the forest. Near the top of the mountain we found it. The forest reminded me of Sweden. The trees are skinny and lots of them, not big like in California.



At the Powder River Pass (9,666ft) we saw snow fences placed at certain angles to prevent snow from blowing on to the highway. There was a sprinkling of snow in the shaded areas. On the other side of the Big Horn mountains was the town of Buffalo. We walked downtown to stretch our legs and stopped for coffee in an old building. The elderly woman was helpful. She was selling Indian designs and Jalil was tempted but I am not crazy for the colors. When we returned to the car, I realized that I did not have my camera. I RAN back to the store, hoping the store had not closed, as some had done already. Luckily, it was still open and my camera was still sitting on the table.



From Buffalo to Sundance, Wyoming, the land was again very flat. It must be very cold when the wind blows the snow around. There is an occasional oil pump like the ones you see in southern California. You hardly see a billboard except near a town advertising a motel or restaurant.



We spent the night in Sundance at Best Western. There we enjoyed the jacuzzi and I swam in the pool. Jalil thought it was too cold but any water is cold after a jacuzzi. Then I worked on my blog but the computer gave me so much trouble that I did not accomplish much.



9-23-09



We had the included breakfast and talked to two women older than us who were from New Jersey. We asked about how to go to New York from New Jersey. They warned us about thieves stealing from your purse. They recommended us to use a money belt.

Our next goal was Devils Tower, WY - technically part of the Black Hills in South Dakota. The road was beautifully hilly with meadows and Belle Fourche river meandering through. You could see the tower from far away. It was declared the first National Monument by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906. (The first National Park is also in Wyoming in 1872.) It looks like a tower made up of columns of rocks 867 feet high with a diameter at its base of 1000 feet. The top area is 1.5 acres. The columns remind me of Devil's Postpile in the Mammoth area in CA.

Jalil and I walked around the tower. Jalil felt it was the highlight to watch the rock climbers with his binoculars. He was worried about how they would be rescued, if needed. The ranger told him that they could easily be heard calling for help from the ground. We also listened to a ranger talk about ecology.

On that walk we met a couple who were also traveling around. They told us about the buffalo roundup in Custer State Park in the Black Hills on Monday September 28. It only happens once a year. We decided right away that we had to see that.

At the Visitor Center we learned that Wyoming was a good place for women. They got the right to vote much earlier than in other states but don't ask me when that was. I read so many interesting facts but they don't stay.

On our way to the Black Hills we stopped at a place called Alladin, pop. 15 - one big store with a few antiques, clothes, food, jewelry and a lot of cigarettes. People smoke a lot here! A small TV was on showing Ghadafi's speech at the opening session at the United Nations!!!

The next night we spent in Deadwood, South Dakota, in the Black Hills. They allowed gambling since 1989 to raise money to restore the old gold rush town. And they have done very well. They unofficially allowed prostitution until 1987 when the federal and state police shut them down. They offered the local police to join them 5 minutes before raiding the bordello!



As we were hungry, we walked up and down the main street which is flanked by high mountains on both sides. There were slot machines and loud music in every establishment. The restaurants were hidden in the back or non-existent. We finally found a salad bar with a hamburger. Not too exiting.



Afterwards we walked up the valley and found an antique store. Jalil loves teapots and found one he needed to get. There was a Shelley cup for $45 which is very cheap so he had to buy that one too. We had a nice chat with the owners. They had children in the Bay Area. A lot of the people we talk to who live here have children in California.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

9-20-09 Yellowstone National Park - Day 2

The day started in Grant Village campground. We had scrambled eggs cooked on our new camp stove and coffee and green tea.

Nearby is West Thumb Geyser Basin by Yellowstone Lake which was THE place to go in the stagecoach days. We went on a ranger walk and learned about geysers, fumaroles, mud pots, etc. There was one cone sticking out of the lake called Fishing Pot. The stagecoach people used to stand on it and fish, then dip the fish into the hot geyser and cook the fish! This is not allowed today.

There were different colors in the pond and each color is caused by a different type of bacterium. This knowledge is used in medical science developing DNA, etc.

We also learned that somebody on his own planted the Lake Trout into Yellowstone Lake. This trout is delicious to humans but bears, osprey and other animals do not like it even though it is bigger than the native Cutthroat Trout. And it eats the Cutthroat so it is a big problem for the other animals. If you catch one while fishing, you have to kill it by law.

On the way to the Canyon Area we encountered a herd of buffalo in two different places. They are huge!!! We drove to the south rim and walked to Artist Point where we met a ranger for a talk about geology. The view from there was fantastic with a huge waterfall in the background and steep, steep mountains on both sides.

It now had started to be windy and it was a cold wind. Jalil refused to camp. He was tired from sleeping poorly without his CPAP and wanted a real bed. Well, that was a wise decision as the temperature dropped to 47F. The day before it was in the 70's.

On the way out of the park, we stopped in Lamar Valley to look for wolves and bears. People parked on the side of the road and waited with binoculars or spotting scopes. One woman said that she had been there in the morning and had seen wolves and moose. We saw one coyote nearby and lots of buffalo but not wolves or bears. We decided to leave as it was getting dark. All of a sudden around a corner there was a herd of buffalo on both sides of the road and on the road. We had to stop until they decided to move. One calf was nursing on the road! Quite an experience! Eventually they moved and we could leave the park via the north eastern exit. We stopped at the first motel Grizzly Lodges in Silver Gate and got a room. It was 39F now at 7900
ft elevation. This area lies in Montana which made Jalil happy, as he has now seen another state!

Monday September 21, 2009 - beginning of fall

A beautiful morning with powder snow on the mountains and 37F according to the car. We stopped in Cook City for coffee at a nice little coffee place. A woman was working on her computer and she raved about her delicious lox and bagel. It was a one man operation and he was very busy. I wanted to try a cup of yerba mate tea. He tried very hard to talk me into a soy latte with this tea as he claimed it was a very strong tea but I opted for the plain tea and it was delicious - smoked. I wanted to buy a whole box but he did not want to sell it to me.

We followed the scenic road down to Cody, WY. It was called Chief Joseph's Highway. This reminded me of when Sue Glass, Theresa and Kay (my backpack friends) and I hiked in the Wallowa mountains in north eastern Oregon. We learned about Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce indians at the museum in the town of Joseph. We visited his grave outside town overlooking a lake. There were prayer cloths hanging from the trees nearby. One said "I am so sorry." He had been promised by the US President that his people would be allowed to live in the Wallowa area and then the Europeans wanted the land so the army chased them away. And they chased them all the way to this Wyoming mountain that we were driving through. At a look out site there were explanations where Chief Joseph had tried to flee either east to the plains or north to Canada with 600 members of the tribe and 2000 horses. They put up a good fight but never made it to either place.

In Cody, WY (5085 ft elevation, pop. 8.800) we went straight to the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, as the AAA book said that we needed at least 4 hours there and it was getting late.
There are five different museums and a research center there. After a buffalo hamburger (dry), we started with the Plains Indian Museum, which I liked the best. It is unbelievable how they were treated! Jalil liked the Buffalo Bill Museum best. We had not realized how many roles he had played in his life. He traveled with his huge show about the wild west to many parts of the world until he went bankrupt. The next museum was the Whitney Gallery of Western Art. We had to run through it as they were closing but we saw some beautiful paintings and sculptures. We missed the Museum of Natural History and the Cody Firearms Museum.

Jalil had earlier talked to Patrick Jansson, the Volvo mechanic, about the blue Volvo. Patrick told him that he had to see the art museum in Cody!

We spent the night in a lovely motel on the edge of town called Beartooth. The view of country outside the window was very flat with no trees. Here we had WiFi so Jalil paid some bills and I exchanged a few e-mails. Found out that Janke has her house on the market now.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks

Jalil felt better after sleeping for 12 hours but still sneezed occasionally. The weather forecast was for thunderstorms and rain per internet so we thought we needed to make reservations in Yellowstone. After a LONG wait on the phone, we had a choice between a $435 suite or a campsite for $10. Big decision! We decided to sleep in the car.



Grand Teton is close to Jackson. The mountains look craggy like the eastern Sierras. The park is narrow and follows pretty close to the enormous mountains. We drove around Jenny Lake with many beautiful views. A little further is Jackson Lake where we had a picnic lunch next to the water. The weather was pleasant in the 70's.



The same road goes to Yellowstone National Park via John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway - a piece of land that connects the two parks. More roadwork - we were guided by a lead truck after a long wait. I did not know that Yellowstone was the first National Park in the US.

We found our campsite at Grant Village. We were checked in by a very nice man who explained what we should see first, and where the animals might be seen. He told us not to worry about the rain as it does not rain for long. So we set up our tent and drove off 17 miles to Old Faithful.

On the way we saw a lot of people on a bridge so we stopped. There were many elk there and Jalil checked them out in his new binoculars.The male was "bugling" per a man next me. Don't know if that is the right term. They do this in the fall in the mating season.

The geyser was estimated to erupt at 1922 take or leave 10 minutes. While we sat on benches nearby, a ranger spoke about winter in Yellowstone and how animals and plants adjust to the cold. It can be - 60 degrees F!!!! The ranger talks were as informative as they usually are in Yosemite. It is such a great service.

Just when the geyser decided to blow, my cell phone rang. It was my old friend Jean Asay who had just returned to Salt Lake City and got my message that we wanted to see her while we passed through. I did not know what to do - take pictures of the geyser or talk to a friend I had not talked to in years? I am not sure what I said but she hung up.

Next to the Old Faithful was the Old Faithful Inn built in 1904. A 29-year old architect Robert Reamer designed it utilizing local materials to recreate a forest indoors. The lobby was fantastic, built with thick logs. The stairs were built with bent branches. The fireplace was built with rhyolite rocks reaching very high up. It reminded me of Timberline lodge on Mt. Hood, Oregon, but much larger. I felt bad that we had not made reservations to stay there instead. But then I learned that you have to make reservations 1-2 years ahead! We had a cup of tea instead.

Jalil got a call from his niece Homeira and I called Jean back and we had a nice talk while driving back to our camp. She reminded me of when Steven and Scott covered each other with ketchup and threw their bikes in the streets and lay next to them so that the first car that came made a screeching halt, thinking that they were bleeding! I did not remember that. Wonder if Steven does?

It only rained a few drops during the night and we were not cold at all. Jalil slept without his CPAP and felt that he had not slept at all and he was very tired the next day.

During the night I heard strange sounds - either a strange snore or some animal. I later learned that it was elk mating sounds. They kept it up for a long time.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Utah, Idaho and Wyoming

We entered Utah near the salt flats where they had built a great rest stop with a platform so that you could see the salt flats from a higher place. Otherwise they looked just like a flat, white line along the freeway. There was a speedway nearby where the fasted l mile was run by car with some fancy engine. Did not retain the details and Jalil is asleep.



The sun was now setting and we were heading towards Salt Lake City. We had not managed to connect with our old neighbors Jean and Don Asay so we wanted to just drive through. But we set the GPS (Luna) on Temple Square and were led there without trouble except more road work getting in the way. We found a parking place nearby and walked in the balmy night to the temple. It was so beautiful!!! We found the Tabernacle and after checking that I did not have a gun in my purse, we were allowed to come inside to listen to the choir rehearsing. I had been there some 35 years ago when visiting Jean Asay.



Luna brought us back to the freeway (15) and to Motel 6 in Ogden. Again too late to find a camp site.



The next morning we started out for Grand Teton via Highway 89 - the scenic route along Logan River. In Logan there is a university which did accept Jalil as a student in the 1950's. Just imagine how his life would have turned out differently, if he had gone there and not to Indiana. While we were there Hoda (Jalil's niece) called and said that our Volvo, which we had lent to her, would not start. Have never had a problem with it.



Just before Bear Lake at a high point there was a beautiful, new rest stop with a view of all of Bear Laked which is a large lake - half in Utah and half in Idaho. There Jalil attempted to call a Volvo mechanic but the phone did not work well there.



At the Bear Lake State Park in Idaho we could drive onto the beach where there were picnic tables near the water. We had lunch there.



The road along the valley passed through small villages and there were occasional old, old, and brown buildings. One sign near Paris stated that a British woman drove an ox team from Illinois to this area in 1849 and she lived there for some 40 years. She became a Mormon in England before taking this enormous trip.



We climbed another summit - Salt River Range. The clouds were now black and there were lightning and thunder followed by huge rain drops. This made Jalil refuse to camp in Grand Teton as he had been sneezing all day and did not feel so good - only allergy per the patient!



Along the Salt River Valley there are a few small towns. We stopped in Afton for a break. There was an arch made of antlers across the whole street. We went to a cute store where they made their own chocolate and had delicious huckleberry ice cream and greeting cards made with old photographs. I bought a few. Jalil had his coffee.

Next we followed Snake River to Jackson. The aspen is turning yellow and it is beautiful but it means that it will be cold at night. Once in Jackson we had trouble finding a place to stay as it was Friday night and we had no reservations as we were planning to camp. The cheap places were gone but we got a suite at Cache Creek - a bedroom with two queens and a living room and a so called kitchenette - hardly anything to work with. As we had food for camping we did well and Jalil went to bed and I am writing and writing blog and e-mails. But I am going to bed now and I hope will make it to Grand Teton tomorrow. Good night!

Nevada

From Lovelock the next morning we continued eastward. There was a lot of road work in Winnemucca so we did not stop. Had wanted to explore the Basque connection there. We walked around a little in Elko to stretch our legs and saw the big court house. They seem to be quite big for the size of the towns but maybe they cover the whole county. Near Elko we could see the high Ruby mountains along the highway. Would like to explore that area sometime.

The next town was Wells - named after some springs in the old days when water was specially appreciated. Jalil and I both needed coffee for our late PM energy slump so we went to Wells 4Way Cafe and Casino. The special for Thursday was potato soup with the salad bar. Jalil was so excited that he wanted to return on a Thursday for more soup.

We noted that these old towns look pretty worn. There are hardly any customers anywhere. The casinos are almost empty, dark and more or less smokey, and noisy but have clean bathrooms.

September 16 2009






We are finally packed for our long trip through the whole continent! It took much more time
than we imagined to clear out of the house even though the car was basicly packed last evening. I was outside in my pyjamas cramming in some more when Janet, my neighbor, took a picture of me. Carol Copeland - my co-mother-in-law - called to invite us for lunch. At 1230 she called again wondering if we had left yet. "I think I will cook you dinner instead".

Our first stop was Crystal Springs - 5 minutes away - for Jalil to get coffee from Starbucks. We drove across the Bay Bridge and we saw the new section that was installed over the Labor Day weekend. At the same time our grandson Dylan called. He was wondering if we would be back for his birthday (7) on December 19?

About 1500 we finally arrived in Auburn to visit Carol. Charlie had, unfortunately, already left for work. Carol's brother David joined us for an Indian meal. It was nice to meet him. He was painting Carol's and Charlie's house. He had taken the same trip that we are planning but in the reverse and he was exited about it. Thank you, Carol, for having us over!

The next stop was Reno - Grand Sierra Resorts (Old Hilton) - where Steven was attending a gas station convention. We parked by the curb and Steven came out to greet us and we had a few pleasant minutes with him and a great hug. He had to go to a meeting and was a little late. It was good to see him before leaving. He told us that Dylan now had diarrhea and was not feeling well. I called Laura and suggested that he drink some Kefir to kill the bug. Hope he will do it. He is very opinionated re food.

Our goal was to drive to Elko, Nevada, but with our late start we were tired and stopped at a casino motel in Lovelock (pop. 2003) No WiFi! Had to go to the lobby in the casino but it smelled like smoke so I did not send a blog from there. The night air in Lovelock smelled so fresh like new hay - love that smell - and it was warm and pleasant. We had a picnic in our room which opened a tiny space in our cooler. The car is so full of clothes (for warm and cold weather), a huge box of maps and guide books from AAA, camping gear, CPAP bags X 2, laptop, DVD's as the car has a DVD player, and lots of food. There are cans hidden in every crevice.

There is very little traffic in Nevada except for lots of trucks. The speed limit is 75 miles/hour and the road (80) is so straight. It seems as if we are hardly moving. There is a lot of road work which slows you down. Jalil thinks it is the TARP money at work. The temperature is in the 80's but it does not feel as hot as that temperature feels in San Mateo.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

When will the trip start?

The big question at this point is: Will we leave for our long trip on the 15th or the 16th? We will start packing on September 14th after arriving from Shirin's and Karen's wedding in Santa Barbara on the 13th. I want to leave on the 15th and Jalil on the 16th. We will see.

Saturday, September 5, 2009